The Pembrokeshire coast is one of Britain’s great seaside landscapes: rugged cliffs, hidden coves, wide sandy bays and a string of villages that seem to tumble down to the water. It is also a place where narrow lanes, summer traffic and packed car parks can steal the joy from a day out. Leaving the car behind is not about missing out. It is about travelling lighter, seeing more and arriving relaxed.
Trains, coastal buses and ferries connect many of the best beauty spots. You can step off a train in Tenby, catch a bus to a clifftop path, walk a stretch of coast and return by a different route. The result is a greener, slower and altogether more sociable seaside holiday — one where the journey becomes part of the pleasure.
The mainline railway runs through south-west Wales and gives car-free visitors several useful entry points. Book ahead for the best fares, especially in summer, and reserve a space if you are bringing a bicycle. Once you arrive, local buses and the coast path take over.
If you are travelling from England or South Wales, the train is often quicker and calmer than driving on a bank holiday weekend. Sit on the left for glimpses of the coast as you approach.
In summer, a network of coastal buses links towns, villages, beaches and pathheads. These services are designed with walkers in mind: many are timed so you can walk a section of the coast path and catch a bus back to your starting point. They are not all-year-round, and some run only a few times a day, so a little planning goes a long way.
Carry a paper timetable or screenshot the day’s times before you set out, as mobile signal can be patchy in coves. Have a contactless card or some change ready. Buses can be busy in peak season, so board early and be prepared to stand for a few stops. Ask the driver for the nearest stop to your chosen beach or path — local knowledge is often better than any map.
Some of the best car-free days out are on the water. Ferries and boats leave from several points along the coast, and none of them take cars, which keeps things simple and peaceful.
Take a waterproof, a warm layer and sun cream — the weather can change quickly on the water. If a crossing is cancelled, have a backup plan: there is always another stretch of coast path, a village tea room or a sheltered beach.
The Pembrokeshire Coast Path runs for around 186 miles, but you do not need to walk it all. The car-free trick is to walk linear sections and use buses to return. This gives you big views without retracing your steps.
Check tide times before descending to any beach, and wear proper walking boots rather than trainers. Take water, a snack and a basic first-aid kit. Dogs are welcome on many sections, but keep them under control near livestock and nesting birds.
Choose a base near a railway station or a main bus stop: Tenby, Saundersfoot, St Davids, Newport and Fishguard all work well. Book early for summer, and ask your host about the nearest bus stop and the best path access. A small guesthouse or self-catering cottage within walking distance of a village shop makes car-free life much easier.
The Pembrokeshire coast rewards the slow traveller. With a train ticket, a bus timetable and a pair of sturdy boots, you can enjoy a seaside holiday that is greener, calmer and far more memorable than a week spent circling for parking.
The Dandy Cove shares practical, down-to-earth guidance on british coastal style, grooming and seaside living for readers across the UK.
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